Arabesque – A Taste of Morocco, Turkey and Lebanon (2005) by Claudia Roden

 “Where the Occident meets the Orient” review by Katie Verling

The word “arabesque” has two meanings in English; one refers to a ballet position, and the other to a style of ornate decoration commonly found in Arabic art. This French word has its origins in the Italian word “Arabesco”, meaning “in the Arabic style”. This is the sense of the word to which Claudia Roden refers in the title of her magnificent guide and recipe book Arabesque which covers the great Arabic cookery styles of Morocco, Turkey and Lebanon.

The mother of all Middle Eastern cooks and the expert in all that is history, food culture and ingredients is the Egyptian–born long-time UK resident Claudia Roden. She has been at the forefront of introducing, explaining and stimulating our palates for the food of the Southern and Eastern countries of the Mediterranean since the 1960s. Evidence of the influence of Claudia Roden’s work is to be seen in the popularity of best-selling chef Yotam Ottolenghi whose cooking style reflects the flavours Roden had already introduced to British and Irish palates. Indeed our own Darina Allen’s cookery school has had Roden as a visiting teacher on many occasions. In her recent Irish Examiner column (20 March 2022) Darina, features the flavours and dishes of Morocco, after a visit to inner part of the souk in Marrakech which Roden had originally evocatively described in this book in 2005. (Isn’t it great to know that these traditions and dishes are still to be found by the informed traveller!) But neither Allen’s nor Ottolenghi’s recipes would have been possible if we had not become familiar with the spices, herbs and dishes of Morocco, Turkey and Lebanon and without the expertise and palate pleasing writing and recipes of Claudia Roden.Lemons, aubergines and peppers, pomegranates, dates and apricots, sumac, coriander, almonds and walnuts, olives, couscous, these are the basic ingredients that spring to mind (and to the palate) when I think of Claudia Roden’s recipes. Pomegranate molasses and preserved lemon (with a recipe to make your own version of the latter) are now a la mode – but Roden introduced them first – and since I discovered her writing I have been inspired to cook using lemons in a myriad a ways I would never have thought of before.

Not only are her books informative, deeply researched and great reads, they offer simple, tasty recipes which encourage the home cook to experiment in the kitchen, use new flavours and produce beautiful looking meals for every day or for special occasions.

If there is room for only one Middle Eastern cookery book in your house, please consider treating yourself to a copy of Arabesque, it will repay you for years with recipes, knowledge and great reading.