Reading books on history I am drawn into the stories of how our food system has come to be. The ease with which we can call up food today at the touch of a button… to do this takes an enormous logistical sequence from start to finish. Standardising the product to the point that it is always available ensures the cogs keep moving on the system.
 
Picture instead the good old Downton days of hunting parties for the food. Duck, grouse, pheasant, deer involved using a gun. The system of getting good food involved the hunt and chase as well as the power of a weapon. Perhaps rabbits were kept for the peasants as they were snared. Fishing of course could yield a bounty of food on condition you had access to the water. There was reward for effort. Society organized around these activities. The gamekeepers protected the booty. There was a definite hierarchy of who got access to the best food. Poachers were penalized but there were opportunities to make money by foraging for food for the elites.
 
Where I live is known for the wild blueberries or fraochans that were collected by local children to be sent by train to eventually be consumed on English tables. There was an unfairness to it all of course as we look back. A hierarchy of health as it were. The Irish Famine is remembered for the failure of one crop heavily relied on. But food was available. Access to it was not.  
 
Ah but that was then you might say! We have lots of food now. It is true that there is lots of food around the world. But it depends what you consider food. Ultra processed foods are categorized as food. But are they really? If you are in the food manufacturing business anything that you can consume fits the bill. The recent and ongoing discussion about the school meals programme has highlighted the reality that most of the meals are UPF. The argument is it is better than nothing. Let them eat cake. This is ok for the masses. But you will find that the politicians do not eat this “food” every day of the week. Advantage is taken of the gratitude of busy parents to have access to a hot meal. I fall into this boat myself, I won’t lie.
 
The hierarchy continues and our food environments have been engineered to have the worst products closest to the most in need of good nutrition. Our petrol stations are drowning in a sea of UPFs but have become the social hangouts for school kids and disability centres.  See it for what it is. We have planned our towns around the service stations. A drive thru disaster as the health outcomes worsen along with the addictions to UPFs. The implications for society are enormous. Caring for our loved ones with chronic health conditions is a burden that we will have to face more and more.
 
Can we reverse the trend with access to good food and shifting the food environments? I would love to think so and draw much hope from initiatives around the world. History teaches us lessons on how this can be done. Can we learn from it? 

​Anne Maher

I cannot explain just how excited I was when the updated Dietary Guidelines came out last month from the States. They were long anticipated and though a few months delayed it has been fun to watch the fallout. Like most entertainment on social media the reactions to the information presented are often more interesting!
 
The vibe is Eat Real Food… and the tables have turned on carbs and low fat. Key changes that will have a significant impact on health. But what has really stood out is the Real Food message and I realise that regardless of the detail we have to start at the very basics again. How many people/ children know what real food is?
 
More to the point what do we mean by food?
 
It depends on the context. A definition I found…
 
Food is any substance consumed by an organism for nutritional support, providing energy and essential nutrients necessary for growth and maintenance of life. It can come from plant, animal, or fungal sources and is typically ingested orally.
 
It gets tricky though as you delve into the types of “foods” and whether it’s a food supplement or not. Revenue have detailed the definitions from a tax point of view. Can we pay tax on it?
 
 
report-on-the-definition-of-food
 
From a food law perspective it allows any substance that can be consumed  including additives, flavourings, ingredients… including contaminants..so all the sprays allowed in the growing of same. A pesticide laden carrot can be considered safe to eat…?! A lab grown burger can pass as a food!
A nutritional science view says food provides nutrients and energy. We went right into the depth of this with calorie conversions to the point where we saw the calorie counts and not the food. How easily we have forgotten!
 
Its not as clear as  you might think and I do feel it is only right to bring our selves back to the fold and learn the basics..what is real food! 

Anne Maher

With all the information on food labels it is difficult if not impossible to make decisions on nourishment. We act in faith that the truth is being told to us on the quality of ingredients. So much trust in the food system. Of course there is plenty of regulation and legislation along the way to give us the sense of protection and food “security”
 
With our food systems under scrutiny though and ultra processed foods being outed for their destructive health impacts it is time to rethink how we actually perceive food. I ask the question always how close can we get to the source of our food? The Urban Co-op is a conduit between the farm and us. But are we prepared to go further? Growing our own is actively encouraged of course in terms of gardening. But what about meat? Are we prepared to hunt, fish, kill, skin, gut, pluck etc to prepare our dinner? All the stages involved in getting food to the table that we never have to contemplate because we have outsourced it. This disconnect may be our undoing. Real food means re establishing the connections with where the food comes from. Living foods. Getting to know our farmer is a good start. They are the custodians of the living foods. Their work needs to be seen, acknowledged, valued as a start. Isn’t it time to get busy living instead of managing our deterioration? 

​Anne Maher

Sophie Morris is popular! Her posts on supermarket swaps have been a gamechanger for so many people and it is no wonder that people resonate with simpler advice that cuts through the confusion of the choices in the supermarket. I really hope that it makes it easier for older people too as they navigate the maze of shopping. The odd time I do find myself in a large supermarket this is one thing I do notice – how lost the older folk are there. Technology advancements have meant there is less time to chat, ask for help and quite honestly I can not imagine how hellish the environment is if you are suffering mentally. Sophie has made it easier and well done to her! Of course she will have her critics… how qualified is she etc to give advice...we do love to wave the qualification flag when a message doesn’t suit us. The thing is I used to bring people around supermarkets in person to teach them about food in person before social media. But now I think differently. If you have to read labels then there is a process of production involved. Production at scale means quality suffers. The due care along the way can slip up. The accountability and responsibility is diluted. Trust can break down readily along the chain. In the end we are left with a deficit. Of nourishment and connection. Getting food more directly from source is an effort. But the confusion is swapped with confidence. Both body and soul are nourished. Maybe we should be reading the farmer not the labels?!

​Anne Maher

Where’s the fat?!
​
A train is coming and there are lots of food companies on the track… I have it on good authority that we will be embracing fat on the new dietary guidelines again! Due out this month from the US I will be encouraging you to take a closer look at this major change coming…
 
What does it mean? Our fear of fats has dictated the pace on how nutrition information has been presented to us. Our food pyramid recommends low fat dairy options for us for example. Now we are fat fanatics here not only for taste but for the fat soluble vitamin content (ADEK) therein. Butter is better… Science has conceded reluctantly that a higher fat diet is linked with better health outcomes. The keto diet / low carb versions are recognised and a powerful tool to reverse metabolic disease. But to date the guidelines have resisted embracing this fact. So what you may say…!
 
The thing is most people like to follow a guideline… how many times do we have to be told to always follow official advice...?
 
So having the obvious included in the official guidelines is a major step forward. Will it happen?
 
The food companies I fear will not be happy about this. Thinking it through when I focus on dairy for example, it is not hard to work out the impact will be colossal.
 
Let me walk you through it… full fat milk becomes the recommended advice. Now the food industry cannot separate the milk into the constituents and sell to the highest bidder the separate parts. Skimmed milk & cream. I am simplifying it but imagine if low fat and skimmed milk are not recommended? This is a serious hit to the dairies. It’s certainly not worth investing heavily in advertising to go against the guidelines. They will have to go with it. They will have to reconfigure everything they do… a major cost. Should they pass this cost on to farmers then the price of milk will plummet. The price has reduced recently. Perhaps it has started…
 
The low fat experiment is due to come to an end. Decades of destruction to our health that will go untold hidden behind the distraction of other health stories and interventions. 
 
Will the dairy industry take it with out a fight? I do wonder…

Anne Maher

I’ve said it countless times, but it is worth reminding folks that FAT is good for us… If you are still afraid of this vital nutrient, you have been brainwashed by decades of propaganda. Have you got low-fat products in your house/fridge? It may not be a coincidence that you are suffering with your health..
 
If we had not taken on board this belief and changed everything with our foods, I wonder where we would be now… we took on the butter substitutes, the trans fats, the added sugar, the high fructose corn syrup, the sugar substitutes, the refined salt, the colours and flavours…. All to make food taste somewhat palatable. We have paid the price and continue to do so.
 
Do not think that a jab will solve this…
 
Let's go back to eating fat instead! Simple! The fat on the rasher, cream on the milk, full-fat coconut milk… etc., it's not a hardship. Trust me…
 
I am so glad to see that whole milk is returning to school meals in the US. This is the start of a recovery. 

Anne Maher

The times are a changing and I am excited with the prospect of our dietary guidelines being updated in a timely fashion in the USA. We may all be distracted with news of peace talks but there is something more impactful happening in Washington.
 
Every 5 years the dietary guidelines are revised according to the evidence emerging on nutrition. You will recognise these guidelines as the food pyramid. I used to believe they were a credible piece of guidance to help us provide evidence based nutrition advice. I stopped believing that when I realized that despite the evidence of contrary fact the same old dogma was rolled out. Low fat is good, saturated fat is bad etc… It is easier to keep rolling out the same message than admit you were wrong. For many years we have championed how important fat is not to mention the fat soluble vitamins within! Bread may have moved up a row on the pyramid but we still cannot have a carvery meal without the serious helping of carbs.
 
These are interesting times as I believe the guidelines are going to be radically different under the leadership of the new administration in the US. They are expected to be a simpler message so that we can understand them better. I cannot wait to get hold of them! Watch this space next month.. 

Anne Maher

My fridge is full again and the family are enjoying the benefits. For too long my fridge was dwindling. I hadn’t realised how easily it had happened. With the erratic and minimal raw milk supply to The Urban Co-op over the last few months I was stepping back from the table and letting the customers take the benefit. When it became clear that the local milk supply was not going to be made available to us as it was heading to Dublin and Cork retail instead, I was brought back to basics. Many years ago I started going directly to the farmers to get my milk supply. How furtive the farmers were then when I asked for milk. They were afraid. Brow beaten by the industry that was exploiting them imo…  It is how I met Sean Condon and so began the journey…. we are where we are today with The Urban Co-op because of those first steps.

I’m back again doing the same visiting local farmers but this time it’s different. Farmers have more confidence about their food. They speak with pride. This is encouraging. I’m bringing home the raw milk again. I’ve made yoghurt and kefir. There is a satisfaction that I’m nourishing my family again. About time. 

Anne Maher